2019 Wynns, John Riddoch Cabernet Sauvignon, Coonawarra

The refinement of coopers (a result of repeated and long-term R&D over the years) is now starting to emerge as a key part of the success of these new release, premium wines. The selected one or two coopers work to preface the fruit and support the fruit and show the terroir… This is why we drink wine: to taste the place that it came from and to be transported there, if even for a moment. This 2019 John Riddoch Limited Release Cabernet Sauvignon is exceptional—it is pure and has tannic sway and flow, and the palate is steeped in five spice, raspberry, mulberry, cassis and black tea. Inchoate. Don't touch it for seven years at least. Even then...

This 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon is a beautifully pure and refined Coonawarra expression with admirable focus. It initially teases with restrained red and blackcurrant fruits with a dusting of dried herbs before meat stock and cedar slowly rise up, all wrapped up in a cloak of fine French oak. It is the structure, however, that takes this vintage to the next level with immaculate, yet significant tannins superbly woven into a fabric of perfectly ripened fruit and fresh acidity. Despite obvious power, it is also a ballerina, precise and light on its feet before threading through to an exceptionally long and fine finish. A modern day classic - the only question is if it will drink well for three, four or five decades.

Full bottle 1,460 g. Particularly pristine cork, cork being very unusual in Australia. This top bottling is of just 1% of Wynns' Cabernet. Deep crimson. Toasty nose with a hint of blackberries plus balsam. Very winning immediately. Round but fresh. Dense but not heavy. Really beautifully balanced. Kudos to winemaker Sue Hodder. Very light hint of eucalyptus but that's swamped by the beautifully ripe fruit. Sappy and energetic but very well constituted. You could enjoy this already but it's clearly built for the long term. Very long. (JR)