2019 Penfolds, Bin 144 Yattarna Chardonnay, Coonawarra

The 2019 Yattarna Chardonnay is flinty and reductive, with a toasty sulfide-riddled palate. There are notes of marmalade on cold toast, white flowers, green tea/matcha, white peach, pineapple lumps and clotted cream. The struck-match quality of the palate is beguiling to some (to me), and this carries through to the long finish. What a pleasure.

Lovely crème brûlée and lemon meringue notes mark the nose of the 2019 Yattarna Chardonnay, joining hints of white peaches and Anjou pears. A medium to full-bodied effort, it's rich and concentrated but hangs together really well, built around a silky, layered texture, a core of lemony acids and a long, long finish. The final blend includes fruit from Tasmania (57%), Tumburumba (32%) and the Adelaide Hills (11%) and was aged eight months in 55% new French oak, mainly D&J.

Light, green-tinged yellow. Mineral-accented nectarine, Anjou pear, lemon pith, iodine and white flowers on the intensely perfumed nose. Taut and dry in the mouth, the 2019 offers concentrated orchard and citrus fruit flavors that are complemented by suggestions of sweet butter, tarragon and vanilla. Shows superb depth as well as energy, finishing minerally and impressively long, with lingering citrus fruit, oyster shell and floral notes. Made in 55% new French oak.

From Tasmania, Tumbarumba and Adelaide Hills. What a mix of provenances! Struck-match nose! Lean and racy. I like this style (which is very different from earlier vintages) but not everyone will. Like a mouthful from a mountain stream. Long. (JR)