2017 Penfolds, Bin 798 RWT Shiraz, Barossa Valley

Red raspberries abound on the nose of the 2017 RWT Shiraz, which—as usual—is all Barossa fruit aged in French oak (70% new). It's full-bodied and velvety, with appealing notes of dried spices, beef and plenty of red fruit. There's a cedary veneer to this vintage, which looks as if it will need a couple of years to come together, then drink well for up to two decades.

Inky ruby. Spice-accented black and blue fruit, vanilla, pipe tobacco and cola aromas are complemented by a smoky mineral overtone. Palate-staining cherry liqueur, blackcurrant, mocha and spicecake flavors show impressive depth and are braced by a spine of juicy acidity. Gains energy with air and finishes gently sweet and long, displaying persistent cherry and spice notes and harmonious, slowly building tannins.