2005 Penfolds, Magill Estate Shiraz, Adelaide Plains

The 2005 Magill Estate Shiraz was barrel-fermented and spent 14 months in French and American oak. It delivers a super-expressive nose of smoked meat, game pencil lead, pepper, blueberry, and blackberry leading to an elegant Shiraz with superb depth and grip. This lengthy effort will provide pleasure through 2020. Penfolds produces a bevy of excellent value-priced wines, many of which were reviewed in Issue 178. Importer: Southcorp Wines USA; www.penfolds.com.au

The Penfolds single-vineyard offering – they are nothing if not all things to all men. And women. Shaded rim already. Warm, ripe rather muted aromas. Very determined to mind its ps and qs, this one. Has brushed its teeth and hair. Rich and warm with mineral scents. Very much a red version of the Yattarna. Dry finish. Not at all obviously Australian when first tasted – could even be a Rhône Valley Syrah from a very ripe vintage! But on re-tasting the Australian heft has asserted itself even though this is a very sophisticated wine. No heat on the finish; just ripeness on the nose. If you opened this wine and aerated it well before serving, it would give a great deal of pleasure even now. Very good balance. (JR)