2003 Penfolds, Magill Estate Shiraz, Adelaide Plains

From the famed Magill Estate in Adelaide, the 2003 Shiraz Magill Estate was aged 14 months in a combination of 64% new French and 36% new American 300 liter hogsheads. The 20th vintage of this cuvee, it represents this estate’s commitment to single vineyard Shiraz since it is made from the original 12+ acre vineyard that was established in 1844. A deep ruby/purple color is accompanied by a glorious perfume of graphite, acacia flowers, and toasty oak. The wine hits the palate with a plethora of flavors, including chocolate, spice box, fruit cake, black raspberries, blueberries, and cassis. Powerful yet elegant and streamlined, this beauty is one of my favorite examples of this wine to date. It should drink well for 15 or more years. Importer: Southcorp, PWG Vintners, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 258-8755

Ruby-red. Ripe and oak-spicy on the nose, with scents of roasted cherry and plum and a slight liqueur-like aspect to the bouquet. Full and rich in the mouth, with plenty of power to the liqueur-like black cherry and cassis flavors, along with suggestions of vanilla, cinnamon and mocha. My hunch is that this inviting wine ought to be drunk on the young side as the flavors may turn increasingly roasted.

Unlike most of the other wines tasted, this is from a single-vineyard on terra rossa soil. 90% new oak, including 60% French. Made in open fermenters with plenty of aeration and pumpovers to get the best extraction of fruit and tannin. Finishes ferment in barrel to get better integration of the new oak. Although the grapes are from a single vineyard, the wine is made in batches in eight different fermenters so in some ways it is still a blend. Much more perfumed than the St Henri, spicy and peppery. Little bit of eucalyptus, grippy ripe tannins. But very very smooth, peppery finish. Beautifully fine and defined tannins. (Peter described them as pixillated!) With time in glass: coffee and chocolate, very fine tannins, tighter and fresher, juicy and delicious. I loved this wine. (JH)