2008 Penfolds, Bin 169 Cabernet Sauvignon, Coonawarra

Toasty, aromatic nose with some nice jam conserve nuances. Very delicate flavours, hints of vanilla and berries and autumnal wild flowers, some violets too. Fine yet powerful palate, chewy ripe tannins, big bold finish, long, impressive fruit. Nicely tarted up with acidity to keep it fresh but bringing the necessary brightness and balance.

Ruby red in colour, with an edge of mint and cocoa bean on the opening moments, and still-vivid blueberry and raspberry fruit even at 15 years old. Open and welcoming, with melted, gentle tannins, unrolling to show black olive, liqourice, bay leaf, rosemary spice. From four different Coonawarra sites, 100% new French oak, fully integrated at this point. Peter Gago chief winemaker.

Brilliant crimson. Very rich and confident. Lively and lifted. French – ish. Bite. (JR)